West of St-Tropez, Hyères is a Côte d’Azur city with a rich history and a sparkling beach scene. The medieval castle above the old town is a must-see for the best panoramic views. For culture lovers, contemporary galleries and museums are waiting to be wandered through. And absolutely don’t miss the Île de Porquerolles, the car-free island just a ferry ride away, with sparkling beaches and a family-friendly vibe. Here’s how to spend the perfect weekend in Hyères.
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When to arrive: Arrive in Hyères on Thursday evening for a full three-day weekend and an early start on Friday morning. Many places are closed on Mondays. During the off-season, certain restaurants and activities are not open during the weekends.
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How to get from the airport: The closest airport is Toulon, which has arrivals notably from Paris and London. It’s only a 10-minute drive into the city, so a taxi might do the trick (around €20). Bus number 63 runs every hour through winter from 7am to 7pm and more frequently in summer. The stop closest to the old town is Jean Jaures.
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Getting around town: In the city center, getting around by foot is easiest — the old town is foot traffic only. But to visit the Île de Porquerolles or the peninsula Presqu’île de Giens, you’ll want wheels — bicycles might be easier than cars, because parking can get pricy quickly. Bus 67 also goes to the Presqu’île de Giens.
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Where to stay: Near the center, don’t miss the creativity of the beautiful Lilou Hotel, from €99/night, or the renovated historic Hotel des Palmiers, from €129/night. If you want easy beach access and come during the summer season, then book one of the glamping bungalows at Camping les Moulières, around €200 for three nights. The best-kept camping secret of the Côte d’Azur is still Camping à la Ferme le Pradeau, a tiny and rustic campsite right on the water on the Presqu’île de Giens — and the price is right at around €35/night (tent not included!).
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What to pack: Depending on the season, bring beachy clothes but with enough layers to cover up if the weather is gloomy. If you plan to hike, bring hiking sandals or comfortable shoes. And if you’re visiting in summer, a swimsuit is a must.
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Day 1
Morning: If the weather is nice, visit the small island of Porquerolles before the weekend visitors arrive. Book your ferry in advance with the company TLV (€24 roundtrip), and pack your beach gear. The island is car-free, but there are a half-dozen bike rental services at the port, island-side. The ride takes a little more than an hour.
How to spend the day: Families will enjoy the nearby Plage de la Courtade, an easy walking distance from the port. To take advantage of the whole island, grab a bike and pedal over the Plage d’Argent — named the most beautiful beach in France. It’s a 30-minute walk or a 15-minute bike ride. There are a few hidden coves around the island, with access to sparkling Mediterranean waters, but not really large enough for a beach day, except for Calanque de l’Oustaou-de-Diou.
In summer, grab a pair of flippers and a snorkeling mask to visit the Calanque du Brégançonnet, where you can go on a randonnée palmé, or an underwater hike; beneath the waves are weighted buoys with information about the local species.
Either bring a picnic with you to the island or reserve a table at La Plage d’Argent (open April to September). The menu is coastal with Mediterranean touches, with dishes like octopus or tuna for mains. Order a crisp, mineral rosé from the Domaine d’ïle, Porquerolles’ own winery, to enjoy with the meal.
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Dinner: If you fancy a cocktail before the ferry back, stop in at L’Orangerie, right on the port. The cod acras (little fried balls of dough, spices, and fish) go perfectly with an Aperol spritz. Alternatively, make reservations at Le Cadet 83 in the old port of Hyères for generously plated local dishes in a clean, convivial setup (€25-28 mains).
After dark: Looking for a nightcap or to wander a little bit before the evening wraps up? Vinoterre Happy is open late and has a wonderful selection of wines, but not only. Try a coastal nightcap, like a Ricard, or an infused rum.
Day 2
Morning: Wake up slowly in Hyères and embrace the French art of flâneur. Café Vola opens at 9am and here you’ll get a perfect espresso in a neighborhood bistro atmosphere. Otherwise, the place Saint-Paul or the place Massillon are the spots to people-watch from a café on weekend mornings.
How to spend the day: Once you’ve pulled yourself from the café terrace, wander through the morning market — it takes over the old town and the Avenue Gambetta every Saturday. Pick up seasonal produce to prepare a picnic lunch. Whatever the time of year, you’ll find the accompaniment: spring radishes, summer melon, autumn mushrooms, or chestnuts. A few crottins de chevre — pieces of goat cheese, and some local charcuterie, and the picnic has made itself.
Work up an appetite for that picnic by walking up to the Castel Sainte-Claire, a superb neo-Romanesque style mansion built on the foundations of an old convent on your way down from the Château. The adjoining park of the same name is classified as a remarkable garden with 6500 sq m of flowers and tropical vegetation. You can spend hours wandering around the park and admiring the stunning views of the sea.
From the Castel Sainte-Claire, hike up to the Château d’Hyères, located on the heights of the Castéou hill. This stunning fortress was once one of the most important in Provence. The original structure dates to the 10th century. It’s a steep climb, but in return you’ll get amazing views of the city and the coast. Spread out your market haul and enjoy lunch with a view.
After lunch, you might wander back to your hotel for a nap, and then venture out to visit the shops of Hyères: Maison Godillot is a surprisingly trendy shop for this coastal town with a mix of Japanese home goods and local dry goods. A half dozen art galleries also dot the shopfronts, like ArtDanh or the sweet illustrations shop God Save the Teatime.
Dinner: Snag a table at Au Fil de l’Eau, an excellent spot for seafood dishes tucked in a small pedestrian passage. A special word for the razor clams and the selection of local beers. The restaurant is small — reservations are recommended.
After dark: Catch dinner and a show or try your hand at the games of chance at the Pasino de Hyères. In the renovated and luxurious Hotel des Palmiers, there is a full agenda of concerts or plays. In-house restaurant and lounge Le Vic has live music every Saturday night.
Day 3
Morning: Snag a coveted spot at Lilou’s beloved brunch service. Served in two seatings at 11:30 and 13:30, inside the chic restaurant in winter or on the terrace in summer, this must-try brunch showcases the best of local and seasonal fare. For €39, you’ll be treated to an impressive spread of home-made French pastries, regional charcuterie, cheeses, oysters, prawns, sushi-grade tuna, smoked salmon, scrambled eggs with herbs, seasonal quiches, and refreshing citrus salads featuring local citrus. This popular brunch changes with the seasons. Reservations highly recommended.
How to spend the day: Wrap up your weekend with a visit to the Villa Noailles, a national art center that houses the Museum of Modern Art. This atypical artist residence hosts modern art exhibitions throughout the year, as well as a permanent collection of works and furniture that reveals secrets about its history. You can spend hours exploring the different exhibitions and learning about the history of the villa. Just outside the gates, visit Saint Bernard Park. This peaceful haven offers a quiet panoramic view of the bay.
As you’re leaving town, stop near one of the squares to watch a game of boules or pétanque, the emblematic ball-throwing game that is unmissable across the south of France.
