I still remember my first trip to Cape Town when my 16-year-old self declared with quiet conviction that the sky here was the bluest I had ever seen. In fact, I called it bluer than blue. I still believe that to be true. The sun, the sky and the colors hit differently in Cape Town. It is often voted the most beautiful city in the world and its nature is the reason why. Never has being stuck in rush hour traffic offered a more scenic backdrop than in Cape Town.
The “Mother City” continues to be South Africa’s poster child and draws the crowds despite it also being home to a huge wealth gap and feeling quite segregated in parts. But don’t let that stop you. With all its problems, Cape Town is still a stunner, offering cultural diversity, incredible food and wine, and adventure mixed with a very relaxed lifestyle against an unforgettable backdrop of mountains and oceans.
When should I go to Cape Town?
The summer season from December to February is all the rage in Cape Town. However, I recommend that you skip the holidays as it is not called the silly season for nothing. Wait until after mid-January when schools have started and at least the domestic tourists have left. My favorite month is March when the days are balmy – the average temperature hovers around 21°C (70°F) – but the city and the beaches are a little less busy.
Don’t rule out the winter months either, especially if you want to combine your Cape Town trip with a safari in the Kruger or in KwaZulu-Natal. It won’t be beach weather, but you can still catch plenty of blue skies and enjoy cozy red wine tastings by the fire. Best of all, you can find great deals for accommodations and get a table at the best restaurants unlike the rest of the year when they get incredibly busy.
How much time should I spend in Cape Town?
You can easily spend a week or two in Cape Town without getting bored. A long weekend is barely enough time to see the major sights, do a bit of souvenir and local handicraft shopping at the V&A Waterfront, and enjoy the beaches. Definitely take longer if you want to do a trip to Cape Point, Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town or the Winelands as those will require more driving.
It’s also a good idea to add a few extra days just in case the weather, or rather the wind, doesn’t play along with your planned activities. In general, Cape Town is a great place to pretend you are a local – plan a day with a walk on the promenade, brunch at the market, a hike, a swim and of course, a braai, the beloved South African version of a barbecue, to end the day.
Is it easy to get in and around Cape Town?
Cape Town’s public transportation is not the best and there are only a few areas that I would consider walkable as there is quite a bit of traffic and not many sidewalks. After dark, I wouldn’t recommend walking due to safety concerns. While there are public buses, your best bet for getting around is Uber, especially when it comes to safety. This way, you and your driver don’t have to worry about carrying cash and you can always share your location with someone. That is especially important to me as a woman traveling on my own.
Uber is also a good option for getting from the airport to the city center. Either prepare with an eSIM or get a local SIM card from one of the providers at Cape Town International. Alternatively, there is free wi-fi at the airport to book your taxi.
Top things to do in Cape Town
While there are museums to visit and sightseeing to do, Cape Town’s real appeal lies within its nature and its people.
See penguins and playful Cape fur seals
First you should see the penguins at Boulders Beach, but for another close wildlife encounter, you should suit up. Head to Hout Bay and wiggle your way into a thick neoprene suit to snorkel with seals. The bay is home to Duiker Island, where thousands of cute but stinky Cape fur seals live. The operator will take you out on a rigid inflatable boat where you put on your mask and snorkel and jump in to watch the seals play – sometimes they come very close in an attempt to nibble on your fins.
While there are some locals in the harbor asking for money to pose with “domesticated” seals, the seal snorkeling tours truly have the animals’ welfare in mind. And if you are wondering if there is any chance of shark encounters, the answer is no, unfortunately not, as there is a natural kelp barrier around the island.
Hike or ride up Table Mountain for a city view
A visit to Table Mountain is a must when coming to Cape Town. If you’re reasonably fit I’d say you hike up Platteklip Gorge and take the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway down. However, don’t hike alone. Of course, you can also take the cableway both ways. Best to plan your visit as early in your trip as possible. That way you have time to postpone and rebook if the weather turns bad.
A great alternative is the hike up Lion’s Head, which is especially popular during full moon when it can get quite crowded. The sky will be illuminated by the moon, but you’ll still need a flashlight. Non-hikers can just drive up Signal Hill (or take an Uber). From here you will also have a fantastic view over the city, the ocean and best of all see Table Mountain in all its glory.
Pick the perfect beach
Regardless of where you go for a dip, you will need to channel your inner Wim Hof when swimming in Cape Town. Pick a beach, according to the wind – the Clifton beaches and Beta Beach are much more sheltered than Llandudno or Camps Bay. It won’t matter which you choose as the Atlantic water temperatures, even in summer, easily dip below 16°C (60°F). Add some seriously wild waves that only surfers will enjoy and you are better off swimming in a rock pool. My favorites include the huge Camps Bay tidal pool and the one at Saunders’ Rocks Beach in Sea Point.
Browse, buy and socialize at Cape Town’s markets
A favorite pastime of Capetonians is the weekly market visit. The shopping is leisurely because markets are for socializing and frolicking. Favorites include the Neighborgoods Market at the Old Biscuit Mill, the market that started the trend. Live music, haybales, artisan frocks and smocks, regional produce, and bottomless brunch cocktails make for a fab Saturday morning.
Another classic is the Oranjezicht City Farm Market, now at the Waterfront, and the Bay Harbour Market in Hout Bay. Whichever market you try, make sure you come hungry as you can buy local produce but also burgers, fresh oysters, pizza, paella and craft beer. Leave some space in your luggage because chances are that souvenirs like a cute handcrafted bag or a kikoi, a South African cotton sarong, will find their way into your shopping basket.
My favorite thing to do in Cape Town
My favorite day trip from Cape Town is a drive to Kraalbaai in the West Coast National Park. Unlike the beaches in and around the city, this bay offers clear, shallow water with temperatures that won’t make you gasp. Make sure to pack a picnic and everything you might need for the day as there are no facilities. At the entrance booth to the park you will need to pay the national park fee of R128 (US$7) for adults.
Look out for wildlife when driving through the park – you can often see bokkies (little deer) and ostriches. If you come across a tortoise on the road please pick it up and carry it to safety on the side of the road.
How much money do I need for Cape Town?
Cape Town vacations do offer good value for money, however, it is still a big city with prices to match. Things are not as cheap as you may think or hope, especially when it comes to accommodations. That said, eating out and transport are very affordable, and many activities are either inexpensive or completely free.
When it comes to payment, the only accepted currency is the South African Rand. Cape Town loves its cards and payment apps. While some places won’t even accept cash anymore you should always have a bit of change for parking guards and small purchases. Make sure to watch your credit card and check your spendings. Cards still get scammed regularly – wherever you pay, do not let your card out of your sight.
Here is what you can expect to spend on some vacation basics in Cape Town:
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Bed in a hostel dorm: R250–400 (US$13–22)
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Basic room for two: R1100–2000 (US$58–106)
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Self-catering apartment: from R900 (US$48)
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Uber from the airport to the city center: R200 (US$11)
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Coffee: R35 (US$1.85)
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Sandwich: R60–120 (US$3.20–6.40)
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Steak dinner for two: R900 (US$48)
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Glass of MCC bubbles at a bar/restaurant: R120 (US$6.40)
How do I plan around the wind?
In Cape Town we don’t really worry about the weather in general but more about the wind in particular. If the wind is howling it can quickly and significantly alter your travel itinerary, as some roads like Chapman’s Peak may close and the cableway will stop running. Chances are if you are coming anytime between September and March, a “Cape Doctor” will hit you. This south-easterly wind is as annoying as it gets, though visitors may like the view of Table Mountain with its tablecloth of clouds afterwards.
But don’t worry, all is not lost when the wind is in full (gale) force – sometimes a change of scenery to the other side of the mountain will do the trick and provide shelter.
Is Cape Town safe?
This is the question of all questions and the honest answer is it depends. The Western Cape has the lowest unemployment rate of any South African provinces, but there is still a huge income disparity in Cape Town. Some low-income neighborhoods (the so-called townships) have started to flourish and become cultural hubs. But it is still advisable to either go with a guide, a local friend or to visit a specific locale like the Eziko Restaurant in Langa rather than walk around in these neighborhoods aimlessly. The same goes for areas like the Cape Town City Bowl, Bo-Kaap and Greenpoint after dark.
When renting an Airbnb make sure that the place has an alarm system, watch your surroundings when out and about and don’t carry any valuables unless you absolutely need them.
What do I need to know about driving in Cape Town?
While Uber will get you most places, you will probably want to rent a car for some excursions. Drive on the left side of the road in South Africa. You can use a valid US driver’s license. Make sure to get comprehensive insurance for windscreen and tires – Cape Town’s sidewalks are freakishly high and always scratch the rims. For your safety, avoid driving along the N2 after dark and never keep anything in your car overnight unless you have secure parking. That also goes for things you consider less valuable like old sneakers or even a stinky yoga mat.
When driving, don’t be surprised when vendors come up to you at a red robot (traffic light) to sell you anything from fly screens to fruit.
